AFYREN, a greentech company offering manufacturers biobased, low-carbon ingredients through a unique fermentation technology based on a completely circular model, and South Africa-based Esse Skincare, a leader in microbiome skincare science, are partnering to introduce the world’s first bio-based propionic acid for the skincare industry.
Propionic acid is a naturally occurring short chain fatty acid essential for maintaining a balanced skin microbiome. Emerging research suggests it helps modulate inflammation, support barrier resilience, and maintain microbial balance – key to hydrated, resilient skin.
Until now, propionic acid has only been available at industrial scale from petrochemical sources. Through this partnership, Esse gains access to AFYREN’s sustainably produced, COSMOS-certified, bio-based alternative propionic acid made at AFYREN NEOXY, the company’s flagship industrial biorefinery. Using AFYREN’s proprietary circular, low-carbon fermentation process, the plant is the first in the world capable of producing a portfolio of organic acids at commercial scale.
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“Our collaboration with AFYREN allows us to use a natural microbial metabolite in its pure, bio-based form – a first for the skincare industry,” said the late Trevor Steyn, founder of Esse, reflecting the pioneering vision that continues to guide our innovation. “This agreement represents a significant step toward creating formulations that work in harmony with the skin’s natural ecosystem, opening the door to new cosmetic solutions that stay true to this principle.”
Nicolas Sordet, CEO of Afyren, said: “This shows how biotechnology can unlock new opportunities for both performance and sustainability in cosmetics that bring real benefits to humans and the environment. We look forward to seeing the first products reach consumers.”
Background to partnership
Together, Esse and Afyren are shaping a new generation of skincare products - one that merges biotechnology, sustainability, and proven skin science.
Esse Skincare is a leader in professional microbiome skincare. Certified organic, carbon neutral, and cruelty-free, Esse partners with skin professionals in over 40 countries to deliver science-backed products and treatments that rebalance the skin microbiome and optimize long-term skin health.
AFYREN is a French greentech company, founded in 2012, focused on providing innovative, sustainable solutions to reduce reliance on fossil-based resources. AFYREN’s proprietary, nature-inspired fermentation technology valorizes local biomass from non-food agricultural co-products to produce 100% biobased, low-carbon carboxylic acids.
The company’s sustainable solutions address decarbonization challenges in a wide variety of strategic sectors, including human and animal nutrition, flavors and fragrances, life sciences, materials science, plus lubricants and technical fluids. AFYREN’s competitive, plug-and-play, circular technology enables manufacturers to adopt sustainable solutions without modifying production processes.
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